King’s Fantastic Chocolate–Espresso Hybrid Is the Antidote for Winter Doldrums It’s called bicerin, and if there’s another booze-free elixir more capable of shaking off a case of the winter blues, we don’t know about it.
best of new york
Jan. 24, 2018
the underground gourmet digest
Jan. 23, 2018
5 Excellent New Burgers for Resolution Backsliders When you tire of jackfruit tacos and cauliflower steaks and crave a juicy burger, here’s where to find five of the best new arrivals.
Casino Clam Bar Is Serving a Divine Fritto Misto Chef Jeremiah Del Sol’s version of the Italian classic includes well-placed curveballs like house-pickled cucumbers, bell peppers, and Cubanelles.
behind the menu
Jan. 16, 2018
Is Trump to Blame for the West Village’s Tortellini Shortage? When her visa renewal was denied, a prized pasta-maker from Bologna had to temporarily hang up her rolling pin.
Yunnan’s Crossing-the-Bridge Noodles Land on Eighth Street South of the Clouds is a Yunnanese restaurant with a pedigree.
Celestine’s Braised Rabbit Kugel Is a Refined Take on a Jewish Classic Chef Garett McMahan sees it as a pasta-course vehicle for some of his favorite ingredients, like rabbit, prunes, and the Yemeni spice mix hawaij.
the underground gourmet digest
Dec. 22, 2017
A Notable Parisian Chef Is Back With a Soho Bistro Serving a Rare French Dessert Chef Marie-Aude Rose, wife of Le Coucou’s Daniel Rose, is running the kitchen at Roman and Williams and Stephen Starr’s La Mercerie.
underground gourmet review
Dec. 17, 2017
urban forager: stocking-stuffer edition
Dec. 12, 2017
5 Unique Chocolate Bars That Make Great Stocking Stuffers What makes a simple candy bar an excellent gift? The stealth addition of olive oil, banana pulp, or halvah, for starters.
The Trick to Ugly Baby’s Addictive Deep-Fried Sea Bream It’s suffused with spicy flavor if not spicy hot, yet has that certain compulsively edible quality about it that great Thai dishes have.
Fausto Opens in Old Franny’s Space This Week Expect housemade pasta, wood-fired main courses, and a serious wine program.
PJ Calapa Opens Coastal-Italian Restaurant Scampi in the Flatiron District Chef-owner PJ Calapa opens the coastal-Italian Scampi this week in the Flatiron District.
The Restaurant Formerly Known As Semilla Has Been Reborn As Casino Clam Bar It’s owner Joe Carroll’s latest homage to the foods of his New Jersey youth.
grub guides
Nov. 16, 2017
A Vegan Food Encyclopedia for Curious Omnivores A guide to the culinary breakthroughs, cult brands, fonts of fat, sandwich fillings, burger simulacra, pizza cheeses, pioneers, and condiments.
At Raviolo, Classic Italian Dishes Are Served Like Dim Sum These steamed buns are the only version of spaghetti alla carbonara you should eat with your hands.
coming soon
Oct. 25, 2017
Il Laboratorio del Gelato Expands for the First Time in 7 Years The venerable Lower East Side scoop shop is heading to Greenwich Village.
endorsements
Oct. 3, 2017
The Truth About Vodka Sauce After decades of food-snob derision, pasta alla vodka is finally getting some respect.
How KFC Inspired One of the Most Interesting Dishes at Uncle Boons Sister Co-owner Ann Redding got the idea for this fried chicken larb during a trip to a mall food-court in Thailand.
John Fraser Is Opening a Gimmick-Free Brasserie in the West Village The menu at the Loyal is familiar and creative, with gastropubby-sounding fare like bistro mushrooms with bone-marrow bread crumbs and shrimp scampi.
BYGGYZ Sandwich Shop Opens Today After a six-year stall, Dewey Dufresne unleashes his BYGGYBEEF sandwich, plus a turducken of sorts on marble rye.
Uncle Boons Sister Is a Fast-food Version of Uncle Boons The Thai takeout joint opens this weekend with fried chicken larb and sai oua on bun.
Foie Gras Gets a Redesign at The Pool It’s shaved into dozens of razor-thin petals and served on a glass cube meant to be passed around the table, the foie spread onto orange “chips.”
First Look at Old Rose at the Jane Hotel From the Owners of the Smile It’s a lighter, healthier approach to Italian food (and hotel restaurants).
the underground gourmet digest
Sept. 6, 2017
Empellón’s Fruit Plate Takes a Safe Dessert Choice to a Whole New Level The seasonally rotating showstopper, currently made with Tristar strawberries, mimics a crushed-ice shellfish platter.
a quick one
Sept. 4, 2017
Old-world Kvass Gets a Fresh Brooklyn Spin at Honey’s Co-owner Raphael Lyon has had a decade-long obsession with the ancient Russian beverage kvass.
First Look at Claro, a Oaxacan-Inspired Restaurant in Gowanus Two Union Square Cafe alums focus on goat barbacoa, antojitos, and moles.
Maialino Vet Chris McDade Brings ‘Hot Chicken’ Milanese to Brooklyn Popina will specialize in southern and Italian, not Southern Italian.
fall preview 2017
Aug. 25, 2017
57 Fall Restaurant Openings You Need to Know About Danny Meyer’s Roman fixation continues, Uncle Boons gets a takeout spinoff, and more.
fall preview 2017
Aug. 24, 2017
Two Superstar Chefs Are Opening Their First American Outposts This Fall How do the New York restaurants of Dong Zhenxiang and Nusret Gökçe, a.k.a. Salt Bae, compare?
fall preview 2017
Aug. 24, 2017
10 New Pizza Restaurants to Try This Fall The latest from the Luzzo’s, Di Fara, Joe & Pat’s, and more.
fall preview 2017
Aug. 23, 2017
A Blue Hill Vet Is Bringing a Korean Banchan Restaurant to Williamsburg The menu at Sunny Lee’s Ajjuma includes fried kimchee with shishitos, spicy squid jerky, and sweet-potato dumplings cooked in schmaltz.
fall preview 2017
Aug. 23, 2017
Italian Favorite Coco Pazzo Will Make a Comeback This Fall Pino Luongo revives his ’90s-era hot spot in Soho, with a fast-casual component.
fall preview 2017
Aug. 22, 2017
Mark Ladner’s Pasta Flyer Is Almost Ready to Take Off The former Del Posto chef will cook your penne in ten seconds.
fall preview 2017
Aug. 21, 2017
Public Kitchen’s Popcorn-Cheddar Frico Is a Genius Bit of Fusion Snack Food Fried cheese embedded with popcorn, a pairing that conjures deconstructed Smartfood and reflects American culinary ingenuity.
How Top Chefs Are Reinventing the Hash Brown Inspired by nostalgia for diner and steakhouse versions, not to mention Mickey D’s, the classic shredded-potato side dish is getting reconceived.
the underground gourmet quick bite
July 18, 2017
Meet the ‘Double Brown,’ a BLT Served Between Two Hash Brown Patties The new all-day Brooklyn restaurant, Hudson Jane, has trademarked the sandwich.
underground gourmet review
July 16, 2017
Restaurant Review: Atla Is Designed for How New Yorkers Eat Now The extraordinary thing is the number of modern-day culinary needs it fulfills.
cheap eats 2017
July 14, 2017
Navigating New York’s New Wave of Asian Chain Restaurants A guide to the long lines, often-kooky concepts, and oodles of noodles.
cheap eats 2017
July 13, 2017
A Taxonomy of Italian Street Food, From Rice Balls to Spaghetti Cones How to tell a trapizzino from a tramezzino and a panzerotto from a fried pizza.
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