• Telepan

  72 W. 69th St., 212-580-4300

  The haute cuisine Greenmarket revolution has spawned all sorts of mini-trendlets, some of which are annoying (do we really need another plate of hen-of-the-woods mushrooms?), some of which are not. To the latter category, let’s add the proliferation of country-fresh egg dishes, designed to exude equal parts organic goodness and old-fashioned country pulchritude. Our current favorites are the coddled eggs on the menu at Telepan, on the Upper West Side. Bill Telepan serves up not one coddled egg but two, balanced over a bed of steamed collard greens and scrapple. The eggs are firm on the outside and yolky in the middle, and when you break them, the contents mingle pleasingly with the greens, which are touched with a light vinegar sauce. But the key is the scrapple, which is faintly salty and rolled in cornmeal, and made, in the grand country-farm tradition, from pork innards, of course.

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