• Bar Americain

  152 W. 52nd St., 212-265-9700

  Normally, we wouldn’t even entertain the idea of an open-faced, knife-and-fork deal as best-sandwich material. We are hands-on when it comes to our sandwiches. But we’ll make an exception for Bar Americain’s Kentucky hot brown�an ingenious Louisville concoction of roast turkey served on a hunk of egg-dipped toast, smothered in Mornay sauce, and topped with grilled tomato and a crisscross of bacon. Chef Bobby Flay, devoted as he is to America’s regional specialties, does it proud. The turkey’s better than Thanksgiving turkey, the fat-streaked bacon just crisp enough, some of the rich and cheesy sauce is browned to a bubbly crust under the broiler, and even the politically incorrect out-of-season tomato is ripe and juicy. Do we dare say it’s as good as any you’re likely to find in Louisville? We do.

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