Best of New York 2011 • Eating

• The John Dory Oyster Bar

  1196 Broadway, at 29th St. 212-792-9000

  The best part of the relocation of April Bloomfield’s fish house to the Ace Hotel and its shrewd repositioning as a bustling bar? The trove of bar snacks�not, alas, free, as might be the case in a lesser establishment, but inarguably delicious. These salty, drinks-demanding morsels extend beyond boutique peanuts and olives to such inspired tidbits as toast slathered with a fresh, fragrant mash of parsley and anchovy, a warm and buttery Parker House roll served with smoky char pâté, and a sandwich of sorts crafted from crispy wafers of house-baked Sardinian-style flatbread. Inside there’s butter, shaved mullet roe, Bloomfield’s beloved Maldon salt, a drizzle of olive oil, and just enough chile pepper to get your attention.

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