Best of New York 2011 • Eating

• Kin Shop

  469 Sixth Ave., nr. 11th St. 212-675-4295

  What’s the allure of the excellent Massaman braised-goat dish at Harold Dieterle’s polished �contemporary� Thai restaurant, Kin Shop? First there’s the price ($22), which is relatively economical compared with other boutique proteins like grass-fed beef or Red Wattle pork chops. Then there’s the esoteric curry, from the southern region of Thailand, which is ground in-house and not poured from a bag. Then there’s the meat, in this case the neck, which Dieterle braises on the bone and sprinkles with shavings of coconut and fried shallots. If you’re wise, you’ll order this dish with the crispy, fresh-baked roti. It comes to the table in a buttery little stack, which you can use to mop up the sauce or to wrap your goat meat in a little sandwich like some ethereal South Asian version of the cabrito taco.

  See Also: A Look Inside Kin Shop

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