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Uni at Sushi Nakazawa.
(Photo: Daniel Krieger/Courtesy of Sushi Nakazawa) |
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- Sushi Nakazawa
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23 Commerce St., nr. Bedford St.; 212-924-2212
At Daisuke Nakazawa’s swank little West Village sushi bar, the spiky sea urchin is presented in its shell instead of the customary box. The roe isn’t the usual orange; it’s a faint, yellowy white, the color of sugared cream. The taste isn’t fishy, like a lot of the uni out there these days. It’s milky, and mildly sweet, and it dissolves in the back of your mouth like a spoonful of snow. This is the mother of all unis, in other words, as different from your standard-issue uni as truffles out of a can are from the real thing.