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- Fung Tu
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22 Orchard St., nr. Hester St.; 212-219-8785
In many Chinese restaurants around town, your average whole fish is a tired creature, dazed from too many days spent lolling in a cloudy tank. At this stylish establishment, however, the black bass�or, some nights, Atlantic sea bream�looks (and tastes) like it’s just been hauled from the chilly waters under the Verrazano-Narrows Bridge. The Per Se�trained chef Jonathan Wu steams the fish to a plump softness, then garnishes it on the plate with fermented black beans, chile, and bits of tangerine peel. Add the modest sticker price ($28), and you have one of the most sophisticated, eminently reasonable �to share� deals in town.