Sakaya

Profile

As a former associate publisher at Food & Wine, owner Rick Smith knew his way around a wine list, but had always considered sake �something you just throw back.� A business dinner at Jewel Bako introduced him to premium sakes by the glass, and he became an enthusiast, visiting breweries and taking a professional sake course in Tokyo. In December 2007, he opened this wood-paneled shop with his wife, Hiroko Furukawa. The unintimidating set-up is ideal for novices, but the selection of 120 varieties will satisfy connoisseurs. Bottles are displayed on blond wooden shelves, each with a tag depicting its region, a flavor description (�earthy and mushroomy in the nose,� �hint of anise, honeydew flavors�), and pairing suggestions ranging from barbequed pork to pâté. The tags also note the milling rate�the degree the rice has been polished�alcohol percentage, and dryness. Bottles start at $11.99 for 300 ml and top out at around $100 for rare varieties brewed from underground stream water. The spot is a popular destination for hostess gifts, with labels modeling illustrations, vibrant foils, and artful Japanese characters translating to �Better Fortune� or �Drunken Whale.� — Lauren Murro