The drinks are chilled, the fruit is ripe. Ladies and gentlemen, start your grills. BY GILLIAN DUFFY TEXT BY ROBIN RAISFELD What says summer? Sexy iced cocktails, served as the mercury drops with the sun. Local fruits and vegetables that, for a few precious weeks, actually taste better than the cardboard they've been shipped in. The reassuring crunch of iceberg lettuce and just-chopped, tart-sweet coleslaw. And of course, everything on the grill: great juicy burgers. Fish fresh enough to still smell of the sea as it hits the fire. And this year, we've come under the spell of a new, even vaguely illicit (this is New York, after all -- not Dallas) passion: barbecue. We've assembled an all-star lineup of chefs who share our love of all things summer. For irresistible ribs, Danny Meyer gives up the secrets (well, a few of the secrets) of his new showcase, Blue Smoke, and explains exactly how to cook up a batch at home. Todd English, of Olives, turns burger grilling into high art -- but follow his instructions and you'll never settle for mediocre again. And pay attention to our guide to grilling fish so you'll never see that $15-a-pound swordfish feed the coals -- unless you need to save room for Alice Waters's divine apricot galette. You supply the hungry people; we'll take care of the rest.     Next         Barbecued & Grilled Cocktail Recipes Fruit Desserts