As someone whose body is constantly overheating, even in the winter, it can be challenging to find the right gear for layering. Whether I’m heading out on a run, going for a hike, taking my bike out for a spin, or just roaming around town, I’m always sweating up a storm. Do I wear a jacket? A hoodie and a down puffer? A tee and a parka? The options seem endless, but this is an all-too-common puzzle for anyone who likes to build an outfit in layers.
When I lived in Brooklyn, I was constantly at war with my winter outfits, putting layers on, getting hot, removing them, getting cold, and putting them back on. Nobody likes spending time on an underground subway platform in the winter, but for me, it was always extra uncomfortable, leaving me flushed and my layers sweaty no matter how long I was waiting. Now that I live in Los Angeles, I’m not worried about layering up for subfreezing temperatures, but I am always trying to find the optimal second layer to pair with a T-shirt on days when it’s 45 degrees in the morning and 70 degrees at 3 p.m.
Recently, I’ve found the solution to my struggles: Polartec Alpha Direct. You’ve probably seen Polartec tags on myriad outdoor gear, but Alpha, specifically, is quickly becoming my go-to after it started to pop up more frequently over the past few years. Originally made for keeping military members warm in cold-weather combat situations, it has, like many military designs, trickled into gear available to civilians.
Light as air, immensely breathable, and surprisingly warm, Alpha fleece has become a popular material among many outdoor and style brands, including some old favorites and others I’ve only recently become acquainted with. The first thing you might notice is that the material is quite eye-catching. Its foundation is a mesh core that gives the material its structure, and it’s finished with lofted fibers for warmth. The combination makes it look like moss that would grow on trees in a far-flung forest or the hairs you might find on the back of an insect. The material doesn’t look too technical, though, so I can pair it with running shorts as easily as I can with raw denim — it never looks out of place. It’s also made with recycled plastic, something I try to look for if I’m purchasing apparel that isn’t made with a natural material.
Practically speaking, the Alpha layers I own are some of my most useful and most frequently used. It comes in different weights, so you can choose from near-see-through 60 GSM layers that pair well with a T-shirt and a jacket to heavier, denser layers like the liner I got from Haven, which is plenty warm with just a T-shirt here in L.A. Since the material is quite airy, it’s not going to block out any wind, but you could pair even the lightest Alpha piece with a shell jacket, and you’ll be set. It dries quickly, so I love to wear it on trail runs near the coast where temperatures will vary from moment to moment, and due to its warmth, it’s a great addition to warmer cycling jackets and soft shells.
My first encounter with the material was on the William Ellery Woolly, which is made to mimic the tiny hairs used by the woolly bear caterpillar to keep warm. I wear it more than any other layer, especially during the late fall and into early winter. The color is fantastic, from the insect-inspired deep navy to the iridescent elbow pads (there’s also a version without) that mimic the camouflage used by the June bug and other beetles. It’s made with 68 GSM Alpha, so it’s fairly warm on its own but is light enough to throw on between a lightweight tee and your favorite jacket. The brand regularly drops different colors of the Woolly, so if you don’t like this one, keep an eye out for future releases.
The minimalist pullover hoodie from Vado comes in different weights, so you can tailor your choice to whatever climate and conditions you think you’ll encounter. The 60 GSM version is great for hiking in variable conditions — my first time wearing it was on a hike in the Tetons, where we encountered oscillating sunshine and cloud cover that constantly changed the temperature from the low 50s to the high 60s. I’d recommend layering up with the 90 GSM version for colder-weather excursions. Each option still weighs next to nothing and can be squished down to the size of a fist, so you can stuff it in your bag when you warm up and throw it back on once you hit the summit.
Nike’s name for this top, Wolf Lichen, is the perfect description for Alpha. The fit is great for working out or for casualwear — it fits easily over a base layer or T-shirt but is still light enough to work as a layer under a heavier jacket or shell. The raglan sleeves allow for a wide range of movement in the arms and the hood fits almost like a balaclava, keeping your neck and chin warm whether you’ve got it pulled all the way up or not. The contrast stitching adds a stylish touch, and the zippered bag it comes with is perfect for packing and washing.
Haven’s Ridge Liner is the thickest Alpha garment I own. I throw it on over a T-shirt every morning in lieu of a cardigan sweater and feel perfectly comfortable taking my dog for a walk, hunkering down in my office, or taking an impromptu trip to the coast. I love the fit and appreciate the attention to detail in its design. The heavier Alpha material is very warm and cozy but doesn’t trap heat like a standard fleece jacket. The Gore-Tex Windstopper ripstop trim gives the jacket a durable feel that instills confidence when wearing it outdoors, and the heavy-duty YKK zippers feel nearly indestructible. I also love to use the chest pocket for stowing my phone away.
Satisfy prides itself on its material innovations, so I wasn’t surprised to find Alpha among its offerings. The half-zip is perfect for pulling on for a run. The material’s breathability really shows in this jacket; I can run for miles in this thing without overheating, getting cold, or getting sweaty. It has hard-wearing trim at the cuffs and neck and a smooth zipper that is easy to use with gloved hands. The gusseted under arms are also a feature I love, adding freedom of movement when doing light scrambling on a hike or trail run.
If you like to cycle in the winter at all, you need this jacket from Pearl Izumi. The speed-up/slow-down nature of riding a bike is the perfect use-case for the breathable, warm Alpha, which will keep you toasty at the summit of your climb while letting out hot air and moisture when you decide to slow down or hit a sunny part of the road that is protected from the wind. And since wind is a huge factor when cycling, the jacket’s outer layer provides an essential shield that lets the meshy Alpha do its job keeping you warm.
You won’t find any special features on these — they’re just straightforward gloves. That’s why I love them, though. The mesh Alpha material allows your skin to interact with touchscreens, so there aren’t any special pads or extra stitching on the fingers to cause discomfort. The seams on the gloves also meld into the Alpha, so when they’re pulled on you don’t feel the stitching at all — a huge complaint I have with most running gloves. Finally, I have quite sweaty hands, so the breathability of the Alpha gloves prevents my hands from overheating while still preventing my wrists and tops of my hands from going numb. Once I depart on a run, I want minimal distractions, and these gloves do just enough to keep your hands warm without getting overly techy.
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