Along with specifications like material, size, and weave, most cotton bedding comes with a thread count, which is the number of threads in one square inch of fabric. It’s determined by counting the vertical threads (warp) and the horizontal (weft) threads and adding that number together. For example, sheets with a thread count of 400 will have 200 warp threads and 200 weft threads in one square inch section.
The higher the thread count, the softer the sheet
In the past, thread count was the utmost indicator of quality. Generally speaking, the higher the thread count, the nicer (smoother, softer, stronger) the fabric is going to be, since more threads contained in a square inch would mean that the threads themselves are finer and better quality, yielding an overall softer fabric. Thread counts range from 200 all the way up to 1,000 and beyond, but just because something has a very high thread count doesn’t necessarily mean that it’s better.
But material matters: Look for long-staple cotton
As I’ve learned covering bedding for The Strategist for years, thread count is less important than the actual quality of the sheeting material. Many companies don’t even list thread count in their product descriptions, relying on other details, such as the type of cotton used, instead. If the fabric is made from long-staple or extra-long cotton — cotton whose fibers are longer than those of regular cotton and therefore stronger — it will in turn be smoother and more durable. Deborah Young, assistant chair of textile science at Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising in Los Angeles, explains that the average American cotton measures an inch long while premium cottons like Egyptian and Pima cotton are two to two and a half inches long. “It may not seem like a big deal, but the fiber is essentially twice the length, and that’s going to make the cotton smoother, softer, and more lustrous,” says Young. It’s kind of like your hair. If you have a lot of split ends (short fibers), your hair will be more brittle and fuzzy. If your hair is healthy and even (long fibers), it will be stronger and smoother. So what is a good thread count to look for?
You can still find excellent percale sheets with 200 thread count
In The Strategist’s guide to the best sheets, I’ve included sets that have thread counts of 200 to 500, and I stand by all of them. Our top pick, West Elm’s organic washed percale sheets, has the lowest thread count of 200. I can feel it in the fabric, which is thicker and has more texture than the other higher-end percale sets on the list. I actually think its heft makes it an excellent, low-maintenance everyday choice, which is why it’s my best-in-class choice.
But there’s not a huge difference between 350 and 500
Moving up in thread count to more premium bedding, it’s true that the higher thread-count sheets feel smoother, crisper, and more lightweight for percale and softer for sateen. I can actually feel the difference between Matouk’s 350-thread-count Sierra sheets and its 500-thread-count Luca Satin Stitch sheets (both percale) — but only because I put them side by side and touched them with my fingers. (The Sierra are slightly thicker and more casual than the higher-thread-count Luca, which cost $100 more.) On their own, both feel incredibly crisp and airy. (Read more about the difference between these two materials in my explainer here).
With sateen, a higher thread count can feel hot
Sateen sheets generally have a higher starting thread count than percale as they have a denser weave and are therefore less breathable. You’ll notice that the sateen sheets in our roundup have thread counts between 350 and 480. In the case of sateen, a higher thread count can mean a hotter sheet.
After 500, thread count starts to matter less
I haven’t tested anything beyond 500 thread count, and it’s hard for me to imagine what a 1,000-thread-count sheet would even feel like. As Young points out, after a certain thread point, the fabric will suffer from the law of diminishing returns.
Ultimately, trust how it feels
Instead of relying on thread count, start your search by choosing a weave (usually percale or sateen for cotton), then look at what kind of cotton it’s made of. As Preeti Arya, assistant professor of textile development and marketing at Fashion Institute of Technology, says, “The hand is the best judge.”
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