Italy’s Secret Pizza Comes Out of Hiding Liguria’s focaccia di Recco has been called the most addictive food on the planet, and it’s finally all the go in New York.
Red Paper Clip’s XLB Agnolotti Is a Sino-Italian Triumph The dish we’ve always dreamed of: a Piedmontese pasta crossed with a Shanghai soup dumpling.
the underground gourmet
July 29, 2019
Bangklyn East Harlem Combines Its Owner’s Sartorial and Culinary Passions Vintage clothes and Thai-inspired comfort food share space in a quirky uptown café.
A Nice Pastrami Sandwich for Noshers Not Fressers Shalom Japan’s excellent new Wagyu pastrami sando is like Katz’s meets (a Tokyo) 7-Eleven.
Edie Jo’s Is Prospect-Lefferts Gardens’ Newest Neighborhood Joint The American restaurant is run by industry vets Doug Friedman and Ben Toro, and traffics in Denver roasts, vegan muffulettas, and Negronis for two.
A Big Cookie Gets a Bigger Stage Levain Bakery embarks on a growth campaign, beginning with a spiffy new store on the Upper East Side this Wednesday.
best of new york
July 10, 2019
The Underground Gourmet’s Best Outdoor Dining in New York The 21 best things to eat (and where to eat them), ranked.
How to Summerize a Negroni A barista turned bartender is challenging the cocktail orthodoxy by shaking a drink most say should be stirred!
underground gourmet review
June 4, 2019
Thai Noodle-Wrapped Meatballs Make Other Meatballs Seem Like Slackers The seldom-seen dish called moo sarong has local meatball mavens all revved up.
Jiang Diner’s Shumai Spotlights the Inner Mongolian Roots of a Dim Sum Classic On the menu you’ll find lamb shumai: mildly seasoned ground meat in a delicate wheat-flour wrapper, sealed in a manner more akin to xiaolongbao.
underground gourmet quick bite
May 21, 2019
The Georgian Cooking at Chelsea’s Chama Mama Is Gobsmackingly Good The new restaurant showcases the distinctive walnut-sauced, tart-fruited, dairy-enriched gastronomy of the former Soviet republic.
Finally, Via Carota Team Opens Bar Pisellino in the West Village Jody Williams and Rita Sodi complete their neighborhood mini-fiefdom with their restaurant’s long-awaited sister bar.
At the Fulton, Jean-Georges Vongerichten Sells Seafood By the Seaport Everything from the menu to the décor is a tribute to the old Fulton Fish Market.
Mercado Little Spain’s Cardenal Is a Whipped-Cream Cloud of Pastry Perfection Airy, tender, and drizzled with chocolate sauce, this Iberian import comes courtesy of market partner Albert Adrià.
tools of the trade
Apr. 25, 2019
Why You May Soon Be Eating Your Dinner With Scissors Snippers and clippers of varying design are moving out of the kitchen and on to the restaurant table.
underground gourmet quick bite
Apr. 23, 2019
Crusty Meze Master Orhan Yegen Finds His Dream Clientele at Lokanta in Astoria On the menu: stuffed grape leaves, lamb’s head soup, minuscule manti, and more.
At Last, an Artisanal Bread That Tastes Like Kasha Varnishkes The Jewish soul-food staple was the inspiration for chef-baker Max Blachman-Gentile’s latest loaf.
underground gourmet quick bite
Apr. 15, 2019
Cult Coffee Shop Abraço Is Now a Nimble Little Vermouth and Cocktail Bar to Boot The bustling East Village social center has added evening hours, tasty new nighttime snacks, and some juicy wine on tap.
underground gourmet review
Apr. 7, 2019
Ceviche Is the Star of Llamita’s New Nighttime Menu Chef Erik Ramirez has revamped his Peruvian sandwich shop with a winning dinner service and a cozy new setting.
High Street on Hudson’s Radish Tartine Is Spring on a Plate This collaboration between the restaurant’s new baker Melissa Weller and new chef Mary Attea is all blushing-pink crunch and runny golden yolk.
In Praise of the Squishy White-Bread Sandwich Including the pinky-raising afternoon tea variety, the Japanese convenience-store sando, and the Italian tramezzino.
Momofuku Ko Vet Sam Yoo Opens Golden Diner in Chinatown “Diners have these impossibly long menus,” says Sam Yoo. “And you can’t do good food that way.”
The Great Mystery of Thomas Keller’s TAK Room Solved A crucial talking point for the Hudson Yards restaurant is explained in time for tomorrow night’s opening.
Mister Paradise’s Apple-Pie Hot Pocket Is No Joke It was partly inspired by another nostalgia-inducing fast-food archetype, the deep-fried classic chez Mickey D.
What to Eat at Hudson Yards David Chang potato-salad sandwiches, José Andrés fried eggs, and Thomas Keller chocolate cakes.
David Chang’s Peach Mart Is a Momofukian Riff on the Asian Convenience Store The Hudson Yards home of crustless sandwiches, honey-butter chips, and chicken-katsu kimbap.
best of new york 2019
Mar. 6, 2019
The Best of New York Eating 2019 Vegan Arabic sandwiches, Hunan charcuterie, and French onion soup.
family business
Feb. 19, 2019
After 50 Years, the Donut Pub Is Expanding Talking to Buzzy Geduld ahead of his doughnut shop’s new branch, opening soon off Astor Place in Noho.
underground gourmet quick bite
Feb. 19, 2019
Chelsea Market’s Buon’Italia Has a Secret Pasta Kitchen The gourmet grocer slings a mean paccheri puttanesca and more.
This New BjornQorn Popcorn Will Bedazzle the Snack Snobs at Your Oscar Party Cult brand BjornQorn’s new meteorologically inspired flavor, Cloudy Qorn, is smaller, crisper, and roastier than the original.
Introducing The Underground Gourmet Plan-B Restaurant Determinator Where to eat when you can’t get at table at Misi, Ho Foods, Frenchette, and Lucali.
Teranga Takes a Fast-Casual Approach to Pan-African Cuisine The restaurant opens at the Africa Center in Harlem early next month.
Introducing the Calabrian Dish That Should Be On Every Pastavore’s Bucket List The cucina povera lip-smacker comes with anchovy, garlic, chiles, bread crumbs, and a not-so-appetizing backstory.
the underground gourmet review
Jan. 20, 2019
Hot Hummus and “Mama Ghannouj” at Vish and Zyara Two pita-pocket-size spots serve up good cheer and great Middle Eastern grub.
Bistro Pierre Lapin Wants to Change Your Mind About Aspic “Dishes like eggs in aspic don’t get the respect they deserve,” says Harold Moore, whose oeuf en gelée is made with pork hocks.
Where an Entire Day’s Worth of Food Came From A pair of obsessive eaters track down the source of every single morsel they put in their mouths, without losing their appetite.
How Narcissa Makes a Sweet Potato Taste Like Bacon Murasaki and Okinawan sweet potatoes are boiled, smoked, smashed, and deep-fried, then draped in two Peruvian-inspired sauces and pickled peppers.
the underground gourmet digest
Dec. 11, 2018
The Underground Gourmet’s Year-End Digest The top pizzas, sandwiches, dishes, and desserts of 2018, ranked.
the underground gourmet review
Nov. 4, 2018
At Çka Ka Qëllu, Albanian Cooking Gets a Long Overdue Showcase It’s that rare species of the New York restaurant world: an Albanian restaurant that serves Albanian food.
At David Chang’s New Bāng Bar, They’re Carving Mortadella Off the Spit It’s Momofuku’s take on mall food, featuring freshly made flatbread, doner-kebab-inspired meats, and even cinnamon buns.
The Hidden Kitchens of New York The Underground Gourmet’s guide to the city’s semi-secret, out-of-sight, and truly off-the-beaten-path restaurants.
behind the menu
Oct. 3, 2018
The Structural Ingenuity of Existing Conditions’ Turkey Club Japanese milk bread and meat glue help to curb the sandwich’s inherent messiness.
the u.g. digest
Sept. 25, 2018
Skewers Are Primal, Fun to Eat, and Suddenly Ubiquitous in New York From Japanese yakitori to Chinese barbecue, stick food is on the rise.
Momofuku Nishi’s Whole Salt-Baked Turbot Is Bo Ssäm for Fish Lovers The textures of the turbot vary from firm and meaty to an almost pork-belly-like richness around the fins.
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