Adam Platt
Appetizer: Steak Tartare
360
360 Van Brunt St., Red Hook, Brooklyn
718-246-0360
Arnaud Erhart’s little bistro opened next to a cremation consultant in Red Hook, so it’s only fitting his steak tartare is the best in town.
Fish Course: Lobster “Noilly Prat”
PER SE
10 Columbus Circle
212-823-9335
Thomas Keller touches his lobster with sweet vermouth and a little disk of candied fennel.
Intermezzo: Crispy Sweetbreads
CASA MONO
52 Irving Place
212-253-2773
They have a brittle, compulsively tasty crunch like Chicken McNuggets, only much, much better.
Entrée: Les Tripes en Cocotte à l’Armagnac
BRASSERIE LCB
60 W. 55th St.
212-688-6525
An ancient classic, prepared by a master and served, with proper fanfare, under a great silver warmer.
Dessert: Baba au Rhum Monte Carlo Style
ALAIN DUCASSE
55 W. 58th St.
212-265-7300
If you want to end your ridiculously rich, over-the-top meal with a bang, this is the way to do it.
Hal Rubenstein
Amuse-Bouche: Blistered Peppers
AUGUST
359 W. Bleecker St.
212-929-4774
It’s astonishing how something so simple can cause such a ruckus.
Appetizer: Our Own Liverwurst
THE MODERN
9 W. 53rd St.
212-333-1220
No, it’s nothing like what you remember or fear. A gorgeous, smoothe pâté to cool the spice’s flames.
Pasta Course: Pasta Fiori
CAFÊ GRAY
10 Columbus Circle
212-823-6338
A simple flat noodle tossed with tomato concassé, thyme, and rosemary—but it’s like tasting tomatoes for the first time.
Fish Course: Snapper in Sancocho Broth
LE BERNARDIN
155 W. 51st St.
212-554-1515
Sancocho is a classic Puerto Rican dish of long-stewed veal, beef, pork, and peppers. Its briny, rich broth ignites a baked snapper. The fish course is no longer the tame one.
Entrée: Boeuf Grillé
PER SE
If you love steak, who better to leave it to than Thomas Keller, who finds a cut even more flavorful than Black Angus? It doesn’t even need the lovely Bordelaise it comes with. The bone marrow is divine.
Dessert: Coconut Vacherin
DANIEL
60 E. 65th St.
212-288-0033
This glistening white circle of half-crunch, half-velvet is dabbed with passion-fruit purée and diced fresh pineapple. It’s citrusy, palate-cleansing, and lush at the same time.
Gael Greene
Appetizer: Baby Scallops on Green-Apple Brunoise with Fresh Wasabi, Yuzu, Olive Oil, and Sea Salt
JEAN GEORGES
1 Central Park W.
212-299-3900
Scallops this sweet and rare inspire daredevil tricks. What makes this work is the wasabi smack and yuzu citrus.
Intermezzo: Shad Roe out of its Sac With Bonito Flakes and Dried Hot Pepper with a Shot of Icy Aquavit
PER SE
I’ve been eating for decades and never encountered anything like Thomas Keller’s shad in the nude. The aquavit is my idea.
Entrée: Hawaiian Escolar Slowly Poached in Olive Oil with Salad of Lettuce Hearts and Tomato Confit
LE BERNARDIN
Its mother would not recognize this white tuna with all the silken sweetness it picks up in Eric Ripert’s hands.
Dessert: Four-Part Citrus Tasting
JEAN GEORGES
Citrus is what I crave after so many tastes. Johnny Iuzzini’s unforgettable quartet features grapefruit gelée with blood-orange segments and honey-ginger ice cream, and that’s just for starters.
Robin Raisfeld
Amuse-BoucheEdamame with Thai-Basil Lime Oil
KUMA INN
113 Ludlow St.
212-353-8866
I’d go all-Asian. These are the plumpest, freshest soybeans in town, imbued with a zesty citric zing.
Appetizer: Galangal-and-Coconut Soup with Chicken Lemongrass, and Kaffir Lime
KITTICHAI
60 Thompson St.
212-219-2000
A coconut-creamy, chili-fired tom kha gai to put all others to shame.
Entrée: Jungle Curry
SRIPRAPHAI
64-13 39th Ave., Woodside
718-899-9599
Unrestrainedly spiced and fully flavored—one of countless reasons to make a Woodside pilgrimage.
Salad: Mung Chaat
DÊVI
8 E. 18th St.
212-691-1300
A crunchy, palate-cleansing construction of pappadam (lentil wafers) and mung beans.
Dessert: Sesame Sundae
BÔI
246 E. 44th St.
212-681-6541
Il Laboratorio del Gelato’s sesame ice cream layered with caramel, toasted sesame seeds, and chunks of dense, rich halvah.
Rob Patronite
Zuppa: Cappellitti in Brodo
TEODORA
141 E. 57th St.
212-826-7101
The opening bid in my ultimate pastivore’s tasting menu: delicate veal-stuffed dumplings in a capon broth so rich and soothing, just looking at it can cure a cold.
Primo: Housemade Spaghetti with Tomato and Basil
L’IMPERO
45 Tudor City Pl.
212-599-5045
The essence of Italian cooking: a simple dish that transcends its simplicity.
Secondo: Orecchiette with Sweet Sausage and Rapini
BABBO
110 Waverly Pl.
212-777-0303
It’s almost impossible to pick just one Babbo pasta, but if forced, I’d go with the exquisitely chewy orecchiette.
Contorno: Potato Gnocchi
HEARTH
403 E. 12th St.
646-602-1300
Marco Canora’s signature side: rich, buttery, and as light as cotton candy.
Dolce: Polenta Nera
SAN DOMENICO
240 Central Park S.
212-265-5959
Not a pasta, but a good way to end the starchfest: It’s served warm with dark chocolate, hazelnut, and whipped cream on top.