New York’s first pizzas were baked in coal-fired ovens, which are now a relative rarity (and down by one, with the Coney Island stalwart Totonno’s temporarily closed). Thus the excitement surrounding Anselmo’s Coal-Fired Pizzeria, whose chef, Anselmo Garcia, did time at Don Giovanni and in various tri-state kitchens. The chalkboard menu reads “Just Pizza and Calzones,” the beer-and-wine license is pending, and it’s cash only (354 Van Brunt St., at Sullivan St., Red Hook; 718-775-5386).