With kidding season over, it’s all systems go for goat-cheese-making up in Vermont at Blue Ledge Farm, and fromage made from the first milk of the year has found its way down to Anne Saxelby’s shop at Essex Street Market. Of particular note is this rich and velvety specimen called Lake’s Edge that’s aged for three weeks and marked with a streak of vegetable ash. It’s delicious on its own or with a drizzle of honey and a smattering of toasted nuts. Combined with ramps in a grilled cheese sandwich, it makes for a delectably pungent ode to spring.
Grilled Goat-Cheese-and-Ramp Sandwiches
12 ramps
Salt and pepper to taste
2 tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
8 slices rustic sandwich bread
12 ounces Lake’s Edge cheese, crumbled and rind removed (at Saxelby Cheesemongers)
4 tbs. butter, softened
Preheat oven to broil. Wash and dry the ramps. Trim the roots, and cut the ramps into approximately 1 1/2-inch pieces. Place the ramps in a bowl, season with salt and pepper, and toss with the olive oil. Place the ramps on a sheet pan, and cook until they are slightly charred, about 3 minutes. (1) Lay out 4 slices of the bread, and spread each evenly with equal amounts of cheese. (2) Top each slice with the ramps. Cover with the remaining slices of bread. Generously butter the outsides of each sandwich. (3) Over medium-low heat in a large cast-iron skillet or on a griddle, cook each side of the sandwiches until golden brown, using another pan or a full teakettle to weigh them down. Serves 4.