Why are collagen masks so popular?
A collagen mask — like the ones from Biodance and Medicube — is a staple of the “morning shed” on TikTok (and, more recently, of in-flight skin-care-routine videos). Users say the masks plump skin and leave it glowing. While they’re technically not wrong — these masks are very effective at quenching the skin — the results aren’t coming from collagen, they’re coming from the hydrating ingredients within. “Fully hydrated skin appears plumper, making fine lines less noticeable and giving your skin a nice, smooth glow. These masks, as well as including moisturizing and calming ingredients, are effective at sealing in the skin-care products that were applied before it,” explains Dr. Nazanin Saedi, a board-certified dermatologist and clinical associate professor at Thomas Jefferson University.
Why can’t these masks stimulate collagen production?
There’s little evidence to imply that collagen can be absorbed topically (via a mask). For the most part, collagen molecules are simply too large to permeate the skin. When I did some digging, I found masks like the Biodance one contain “ultralow molecular collagen,” which is a smaller, broken-down version (or a hydrolysate). I read a small study suggesting that this kind of collagen is more effective at permeating the skin and can improve the look of wrinkles — but the study was small. (And was not conducted with these products specifically.) And even if they can deliver this smaller molecule of collagen to the skin, there’s still no evidence that they can actually stimulate the production of collagen once absorbed.
How can I actually stimulate collagen production?
The best ways are “injectables like biostimulatory fillers and in-office procedural devices that use ultrasound and/or radiofrequency energy,” explains Dr. Jaimie Glick, a double-board-certified dermatologist and Mohs Surgeon clinical assistant professor at Mount Sinai Skincare, and Saedi concurs.
What are collagen masks good for?
Sure, these masks boost hydration — but, actually, they have other benefits too. “There are studies showing that in addition to increasing hydration, collagen masks can reduce erythema, maintain a healthy skin microbiome, and improve the skin barrier,” says Glick. “All of this will inevitably improve the appearance of wrinkles and overall complexion, even if we are not directly stimulating collagen production.” “They’re also helpful when you’re in climates that are colder and drier, like long, overnight flights,” explains Saedi. “This is because the air inside an aircraft is usually very dry and can therefore pull moisture away from your skin and dry it out.” However, Saedi stresses that the hydrating effects of these masks are temporary. “For a lasting, long-term anti-aging solution, you should add actives to your daily skin-care routine that have been studied to help improve the skin’s firmness and elasticity from within,” she explains. “These include retinoids, peptides, and growth factors.” (Retinoid is the umbrella term for all vitamin-A-derived ingredients in skin care, including over-the-counter retinol, retinaldehyde, and prescription options like tretinoin.)
Some retinoids to combine with your collagen mask:
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