Agern

The proprietor of this mannered little Scandinavian-themed establishment, which opened a couple of years ago in a windowless corner of Grand Central Terminal is Claus Meyer, who helped ignite the great Scandi-dining craze at Noma, in Copenhagen, several years back. This isn’t Noma (or even a pale facsimile), but if you’re cooling your heels, waiting for the 8:15 train to Scarsdale, and have a hankering for the spare, clean taste of a well-turned tuber, or bowl or two of shellfish soup, you could do worse. The gently honeyed roast duck is worth ordering if it’s on the menu (it wasn’t the last time I dropped in), although the Icelandic chef, Gunnar Gíslason, seems most comfortable with stolid seafood preparations like Atlantic cod done various rustic ways, strips of skate garnished with apples and salsify, and roasted cuts of grouper plated, the last time we ordered it, with scallions, chicory, and other bits of fashionably wilted greenery.