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This time of year, of course, there is no richer, fattier, tastier delicacy than wild salmon from out West, the Alaskan king, a.k.a. Chinook, in particular.

Attention, fromage-loving Joycean scholars: Cato Corner Farm’s Bloomsday cheese aged one year will arrive on schedule next week at Greenmarket.

Sorrel, the arrowhead-shaped herb and member of the buckwheat family that’s prized for its inherently tart, lemony flavor, is traditionally used in cream soups and fish sauces.

While ramps get all the Greenmarket glory this time of year, green garlic (a.k.a. spring garlic, young garlic, and baby garlic) is no slouch in the pungent-flavor department.

Long relegated to dainty English tea sandwiches, innocuous garnishes, and the like, watercress can withstand a bit rougher treatment.

As fleeting as ramps, as spring-fever-inducing as fiddlehead ferns, and as pricey as a tankful of gas, fresh wild morels have swooped into town.

In Spain, springtime is welcomed with a calçotada, the annual flame-licked ritual of grilling calçots, a sort of sweet, tender spring onion, over an open fire.

Scrub one down and try it in this recipe for kinpira, a traditional Japanese dish, from the East Village izakaya Kasadela.

Get out your fly rods and woolly buggers: It’s trout season. If you can’t picture yourself maneuvering a swift-flowing Catskills stream in hip waders, there’s always the Union Square Greenmarket, where Dave Harris of Max Creek Hatchery sells brook and rainbow trout every Wednesday.

Although summer is peak lobster season, local trappers like Phil Karlin of the Greenmarket’s PE&DD Seafood begin hauling in their pots from Long Island Sound at a steady clip right about now.