skin-care

I Went Full Barrier-Repair Mode

Photo-Illustration: The Strategist; Photo: Simone Kitchens, Retailer

This story first appeared on Wednesday, February 12, in The Strategist Beauty Briefa weekly newsletter in which our beauty writers share their must-tries, can-skips, and can’t-live-withouts. But we liked it so much we wanted to share it with all of our readers. If you want more first impressions of buzzy launches, quick takes on what’s trending on TikTok and Instagram, and deep dives into the week’s best beauty launches, sign up hereThe Strategist Beauty Brief is delivered every Wednesday.

In late October, when the weather first changed where I live, in Cleveland, the humidity in the air evaporated and my skin turned to sandpaper. Stiff, rough patches prevented any moisture from getting in. My usual oils sat shinily on my face and slid off within an hour. Serums left tiny red dots behind; mists made my skin feel drier. I went in for a facial and was told I had a “compromised barrier.” The comment reminded me of the Kristina Holey x Marie Veronique skin-care line, which makes products specifically designed to fix weakened barriers. I set up a call with Holey, an esthetician and scientist, to see how I could fix mine. I told her some skin-history things: that I was 40, still nursing, and was about to endure a Midwest winter. Basically, a dry-skin perfect storm.

As my skin has gotten more reactive over the years, I’ve mostly used face oil, some vitamin C, and not much more. I identified as someone with sensitive skin. But Holey doesn’t think sensitive skin is a condition you just live with, even in the winter. “When it comes to countering the elements; it’s not about the top layer, it’s about the layers underneath: regulating the acidity of the skin, which addresses the water loss.” She suggested a full routine.

At night, I’ve started cleansing with the brand’s essential-oil-free oil cleanser, the oiliest-feeling face wash I’ve tried. It immediately plumps up my shriveled skin with moisture but rinses off easily. Next, I swab on the line’s toner, which specifically addresses the sandpaper texture and redness with its mix of humectants and anti-inflammatories. Then C-Therapy (an ascorbic-acid derivative, a well-tolerated, training-wheel version of vitamin C, which is preferable for someone like me who’s repairing their acid mantle) and Barrier Lipid Complex, an oily mix of ceramides, cholesterol, and fatty acids that looks and feels like melted butter and is great for someone with postpartum-skin deficiencies, a.k.a. very dry skin.

In the morning, a swipe of the tonic, a B3 serum (10 percent niacinamide with a high level of hyaluronic acid and anti-inflammatories), Barrier Restore Serum (Holey recommends this serum to skin types across the board; it’s the one that takes you to “Oh, I’m not dry at the end of the day”), the Barrier Lipid Complex, and sunscreen. This daytime routine, about three more layers than I was doing before, feels lightweight, sinks in immediately, and leaves my skin so hydrated that I no longer need to pat on extra face oil during the day.

I’ve been on the Marie Veronique regimen for most of the winter now. There was snow on the ground for the entire month of January. Half the month, the high never went above 20 degrees. I regularly wear two down jackets. But my skin is doing great. The dry patches have gone; my skin is no longer red with sensitivity. And it feels like my skin-care products are absorbed now. It’s hard to articulate, but it’s like the hydration is really getting into my skin at a deeper level.

Three other things that have helped my barrier:

Holey also recommended a red-light device. She likes LightStim, but I’ve been trying the Current Body Mask. It’s the strongest red-light mask I’ve tried, and so far, I’ve been seeing more evenness in tone.

Photo: Retailer

CarePod is my favorite humidifier, ever. I just ordered a second. It’s so easy to clean, but honestly, after having it for two winters, it doesn’t get gross. The tank is stainless steel.

On the coldest, driest nights, when temperatures were in the teens, I tried out the Canopy Mini on my bedside table. It hydrates the air but doesn’t get any nearby bedding soggy. The white-noise setting is a bonus.

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I Went Full Barrier-Repair Mode